Love Your Pan: What to Cook (and What Not to) in a Cast Iron

Steak is made for cast iron cooking. A bolognese? Not so much.
Image may contain Food and Steak
Photo by Peden + Munk

If we could, we'd shout it from the mountain tops: We love cooking with cast iron. They're durable, efficient, endlessly useful, and make a pretty photo to boot. And yet, for so many, cast iron pans remain tucked away in the furthest cabinet, shrouded in mystery. There's the endless questioning of whether you're cleaning it correctly or not, of course, but equally crippling is the constant wondering: Am I actually using this thing correctly? This pan is consistently referred to as the workhorse of any kitchen—and it is!—but you've also probably heard that there are certain things you should never, ever cook in a cast iron. What should go for a spin in this heaviest of pans? What should be reserved for stainless steel and nonstick? We've got answers.

But first, a brush-up on proper cast iron care. Conventional wisdom says not to wash your cast iron pans with detergent, and while that does hold true, "a little bit of soap on the sponge won't do any major damage," according to Dawn Perry, Bon Appétit senior food editor. Equally important is to avoid metal scouring pads, which can scratch, damage, and remove the layers of seasoning and expose the metal. If your dinner has imparted stubborn crusty bits onto the pan, the best way to clean it is by rubbing it down with kosher salt and a kitchen towel while it's still warm, then wiping it down with fat (flaxseed oil or lard do the trick nicely). Water is not the enemy of cast iron, unless you allow it to soak. Your safest bet is to scour, wash with water if necessary, and then dry and rub it down immediately. If your pan needs extra loving, you can re-season it by scrubbing it clean and applying a film of fat all over the pan's interior and exterior, then placing it in a 500˚ oven with a sheet pan or foil underneath to catch drips. Let "bake" for one hour, then cool the pan completely in the oven.

Now, about that food…

What to Cook in Your Cast Iron

The benefit of using a cast iron pan is that it gets screaming hot and stays hot. Unlike thinner pans, like aluminum, the heat level doesn't fluctuate in a cast iron. This makes the cast iron an ideal choice for foods that need high heat. Meats that need a hard sear but shouldn't be scorched, like steak, or roasts that should be browned before braising, perform beautifully in a cast iron. The surface of the meat takes on a deep brown color and crust without accumulating burnt, black bits at the bottom of the pan (not to be confused with delicious brown bits). To get the most out of your cast iron-meat searing experience, preheat the pan over the flame so it has time to absorb the heat. As an added bonus, the cast iron is oven-safe, so you can take it from the stovetop directly into the oven.

Stir-fries are another great cast iron option because the pan's ability to hold heat is similar to that of a wok. A proper stir-fry cooks up in minutes, crisping the rice and/or meat, while allowing the vegetables to retain some crunch. To achieve this, you need a pan that won't experience a temperature drop as soon as you add food to it. That's where cast iron really shines.

Mitchell Feinberg

If you're a fan of perfectly golden-brown roasted vegetables with a crunchy exterior crust (and who isn't?), consider dumping your trusty rimmed sheet pan in favor of a large cast iron skillet. Direct contact with a super-hot surface is what imparts that browning.

A diligently cared-for and well-maintained pan can also fry eggs nicely. Be wary of scrambled eggs and frittatas, which can get gummy and stick to a poorly-seasoned pan. (If that happens, it's fixable with a salt scrub and re-seasoning.) The better you season a cast-iron, the less food will stick to it, so if you've been careless with your pan for the last few months, don't expect to whip out a batch of over-easy eggs like a short-order line cook.

Great news! There's no need to spring for a deep fryer if you have a cast iron pan on hand: This sturdy pan is the perfect vehicle for frying. In fact, we often prefer to fry up chicken in our favorite skillet. If you're frying large or heavy food that has the potential to splatter when added to the oil, reach for a deeper, Dutch oven-style cast iron.

We'd be remiss not to mention cornbread here—it's one of the most ubiquitous cast iron dishes there is, and for good reason! Preheating the pan as the oven comes to temperature will impart a crunchy, golden crust to your cornbread: The batter will sizzle when you spread it into the pan, and that's a very good thing.

Oh and this Giant Chocolate Chip Skillet Cookie because, well, duh.

…And What Not to Cook
Marcus Nilsson

Bolognese: Not the best choice for cast iron.

Delicate pieces of fish are not the best option for a heavy-duty cast iron, especially one that hasn't been carefully seasoned. If presentation matters, sautéing a tilapia fillet in your cast iron might leave you disappointed: The fish has a high potential for cleaving apart and flaking into pieces when lifted with a spatula. Intent on using the cast iron? Perry suggests choosing thicker, meatier pieces of fish, and cooking them skin-side down. They'll stand up to the heat far better.

Friendly reminder here that more so than a nonstick or stainless steel pan, the cast iron takes on the flavors of whatever it's cooking. If you fry batches of breaded halibut, give your pan a half-hearted wipe, and then use it to bake your favorite peach cobbler, don't be surprised if dessert tastes suspiciously fishy. A pan that's used frequently for savory recipes is not a great vehicle for sweet things and dessert. It's helpful to have two dedicated pans, but if you've only got the one, it's worth the effort to thoroughly salt-scrub your pan (don't forget the sides and seams!) and re-season it before proceeding with the baking portion of the food prep.

Although we love a long, slow-simmered marinara or bolognese, the acidity in tomato sauce can be too harsh for a cast iron pan. Caveat: A really, really well-seasoned pan has a film of fat (oil, lard) that protects the metal from whatever food or kitchen tools that come in contact with it. If you've religiously cared for your pan, feel free to simmer that tomato sauce. The rest of us mortals should avoid overly acidic foods in our cast irons. On the same token, it's best not to deglaze a cast iron with vinegar or wine. Not only will the acidity of the liquid potentially react with exposed metal causing damage to the pan, it can impart a metallic taste to the food.

Ready to fire it up? Check out these cast iron recipes.

Or watch the video to learn how to cook the perfect steak in your cast iron: