One of the best parts about our test kitchen manager, Brad Leone's, job is his weekly trip to the farmers' market. It's his responsibility to supply the kitchen with ripe produce, protein, and pantry staples year-round. In the summer, when the farms are cranking out the good stuff, Brad is like a kid in a candy store. Every Wednesday, he hits the market with his reusable grocery bags to stock up on what's fresh and good—and do a little snacking and snapping along the way, of course. (He took that gorgeous picture at the top of the page!) Check back here at our From the Market column every Wednesday to see what Brad picked up and, of course, to get some cooking inspiration of your own.
Parmesan, baba ghanoush, gratin…these are just a few of our favorite words, and they all have one thing in common: Eggplant! This summertime staple is a member of the nightshade family, and comes in just about as many varieties as there are ways to cook them. From long, skinny Japanese eggplant to the speckled and pale purple Fairy Tale variety, all eggplants share a few key components to look for when shopping. Here are Brad's tips for buying and cooking the best eggplants at the market—no matter what kind you choose.
"I like to look for shiny and smooth skin that has even consistency through out the vegetable," says Brad. Dull garish skin is a sign of poor storage or down right bad quality. Wrinkles are a sign that the eggplant is old and was harvested a long time ago, so pass over wrinkly skin in favor of taut, tight eggplants. It goes without saying that you "don’t want brown blemishes or soft spots!"
"Eggplant should be slightly firm but not hard," says Leone. In other words, if you push on it with your finger and the veggie feels very soft, or you're able to puncture the skin, it's too far gone. A perfectly ripe eggplant will not have as much give when touched as a ripe tomato or peach.
Although the majority of the plant should be a vibrant purple (or bright white, depending on the variety), Brad offers another tip: "The stem end should be green." In addition, it should be free and clear of any mold or mushiness; while the skin of the plant may look pert and perky, signs of damage may be lurking around that stem. Check there first!
Despite conventional wisdom, most eggplants aren't unbearably bitter. However, there is an exception: "Large eggplants can be more bitter and have more seeds as the vegetable was given more time to mature," explains Brad. Avoid the hassle by choosing small- to medium-sized and well-formed eggplants.
Eggplants can be stored in the fridge for a few days to great success, says Brad. But if you've come across a bumper crop, fear not: You don't have to eat eggplant at every meal. Instead, roast and blend the eggplant in big batches. Freeze the purée with a little lemon juice (to prevent discoloration), and use it in sauces and dips (like this Charred Eggplant and Tahini Spread) all year 'round.