I'm Skipping the Holiday Parties and Eating This Dinner Scramble Instead

It's the quickest, most comforting one-bowl meal, and frankly I can't stop making it.
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Photo by Chelsea Kyle, Food Styling by Frances Boswell

When Chris Morocco presented these soy-ginger eggs over rice at our first tasting, I was confused. It looked like scrambled eggs on top of rice. Delicious, yes. A recipe? I wasn't sure. Then I took a bite. The flavor was so surprising, so not like scrambled eggs, that my brain could not compute. They tasted rich and salted and just slightly sweet, and I kept eating more and more, trying to wrap my head around why they were so good. Even editorial assistant Aliza Abarbanel, avowed hater of eggs in all forms, took a second bite and said, "Wow, I almost...like them!" What was going on with these eggs?!

A couple things are going on with these eggs, namely mirin, ginger, and soy sauce, which get stirred into the eggs before they cook. Also ghee, which Morocco uses in the pan. He scrambles the eggs gently over low heat so they turned out silky smooth, then serves them over steamed rice with quick-pickled cucumbers on the side. A sprinkle of scallions and sesame seeds, and it's almost too simple to be a recipe. The mirin lends a little sweet acidity, the soy gives an umami backbone, and the spicy ginger reminds you that this is proper dinner food. The ghee that the eggs are cooked in (you could also use butter) adds just enough luxury for a weeknight meal.

As soon as I tried these eggs, I craved them all the time. The next night, I texted Morocco for the proportions of mirin, ginger, and soy sauce so I could make them at home. I make this recipe at least once a week now, usually on nights when I'm eating alone—it's just that kind of recipe (though I kinda love the idea of a scrambled egg dinner party). I admit that I've turned down plans with actual people I like with these eggs in mind. I appreciate the crunch and ~ health ~ of the quick pickles, but TBH I don't always get around to them. I could see cooking some torn greens in the ghee before adding the eggs or making a brothier, congee-like rice and eating the eggs on top of that. And despite what I said about dinner food, this recipe would make for a great weekend breakfast or work-from-home lunch. You'll swear you've been making eggs like this forever...and then you will.

Stay in and scramble:

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Ginger and soy sauce make scrambled eggs for dinner feel like more than a cop-out.
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