Think of Gjusta as the modern-day version of the Chocolate Room in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Almost everything here is edible and tempting, so where do you start—with the smoked brisket sandwich or the baklava croissant?
That was my dilemma as I grabbed a golden ticket (okay, a number) and waited my turn. Pizza? No, that brisket sandwich looks like a can’t-miss. Wait, I’ll have the smoked fish sampler. My turn? Oh man, I have no idea. The cool kids of Venice surrounding me seemed to be having the same problem (not a bad one to have). And to think that Gjusta was just supposed to be a commissary kitchen for chef and owner Travis Lett’s sceney—and great—nearby spot, Gjelina. But it’s morphed into an all-day cafe (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.) with multiple mini-restaurants adding up to a kind of artisanal food court that is among the most ambitious culinary projects I’ve come across. It’s a bakery with sprouted rye bread; a smokehouse and rotisserie with porchetta and prime rib; a salad extravaganza showcasing the best of California produce; a sandwich joint; and a coffee and juice bar.
Outside in the “dining room”—a glorified parking lot that until recently featured milk crates as tables and chairs (they’ve since been replaced with legit furniture)—the perpetual sunshine and mellow vibes make it feel like the ultimate backyard party. I’ve been to places similar to Gjusta that do one thing really well but fumble on the others. There is no weak link here. And the best part about Lett playing Willy Wonka in this smorgasbord of my dreams? He’s not going to kick me out for gorging myself like Augustus Gloop.
Peek inside Lett's culinary wonderland:
Travis Lett on the philosophy behind his one-of-a-kind, all-in-one eatery:
How would you describe Gjusta?
To call it a bakery feels like it falls short. I’d say, take a Russ & Daughters and slam it into a Dean & DeLuca. We’re smoking things, making charcuterie, we’ve got antipasti, bread, pastry, rotisserie meats, pizzas. It sounds like a mess, but it works.
How do you make it your own?
We’re an old-world deli with a new-world sourcing sensibility. One example: We’re using Peads and Barnetts’s free-range pork from the farmers’ market for our porchetta.
Why go the D.I.Y. route?
New York has institutional smoked fish houses that have been doing it for 100 years. If you want it in L.A., you have to make it.
And the take-out?
I love the idea of creating everyday eateries. People use Gjusta as a daily extension of their pantry. We focus on the building blocks: bread, vegetables, coffee. That’s what this is about—making the best versions of the basics.
How do you keep it approachable but still interesting?
A five-year-old can walk in and find two dozen things they like. But we also play around with pickled sardines. Somehow it all makes sense.
Grab-and-Go
Doesn't "to-go lunch spot" conjure images of steam tables and how-long-has-that-been-sitting-there egg salad? Then you haven't seen Gjusta's prepared foods section. It features a lineup of bright and bold room-temp options, made with produce from the Santa Monica farmers' market (e.g., green beans with cherry tomato and dukka). There isn't much we wouldn't do to have an outpost near our office.
Breads
Lett and Co. (specifically Greg Blanc and Jose Mateo) could produce a great loaf or two and call it a day. Instead they make a bakery's worth, from sourdough baguettes to whole grain, seedy loaves so good they belie their hippie roots. And because the team couldn't resist, there are also bialys, pizzas, and buns. (As if they'd serve a burger on some else's bread.)
Smoked and Cured Fish
Lett's homage to the Jewish delis of his New Jersey youth hits all the classic notes without being beholden to tradition. He and executive chef Manny da Luz—whose first food job was working the smoker at a fish market—hot-smoke, cold-smoke, and cure fish like salmon and trout. Their emphasis on local, sustainable fish is something you won't find at many legendary spots. "We go to the market twice a week, da Luz says. "We hand-pick our fish personally." Get yours by the pound for a brunch spread or layered onto a bialy with whipped burrata, the cream cheese replacement your bubbe never saw coming.
Sandwiches
The sandwiches get a serious assist from the smoker (which works its magic on Wagyu brisket as well as fish) and the rotisseries, spinning chicken, porchetta, prime rib, and leg of lamb to juicy perfection. Treat yourself to a wonderfully simple sandwich (on house-made bread, of course), or walk out with a whole chicken for the best weeknight dinner you didn't cook.
Pastries
It's the pies that grab you when you first walk in. But the unconventional touches—say, spelt flour in the Bundt cake—keep you coming back. (And also: those pies.) Miller has a vegan background, but before you roll your eyes, know that she's not pandering to fat-conscious Angelenous. "Butter-rich desserts are great, says Miller, who includes plenty on her 45-item (give or take) menu. "But when you use other fats, your palate isn't wiped out by the dairy. Other flavors can shine."
Drinks
What happens when a barista with cocktail know-how heads the beverage program? A drinks menu so complex and refreshing, we almost didn’t notice there’s no liquor in sight. Scotty Evans oversees the selection, including coffee offerings, fresh-steamed house-made nut milk with coconut oil, and kale smoothies (which use that house-made nut milk). The drinks are also as reflective of seasonality as the rest of Gjusta’s offerings, with daily juices, rotating limeades (like ginger or pomegranate), and Lett’s favorite: tart shrubs made with the fruit that doesn’t land in the restaurant’s salads or jams. ”They take the place of soda,” he says, “without using nearly as much sugar.”
Smoked Trout and Shellfish Chowder
Marinated Beets with Potatoes and Horseradish
Chocolate Chunk-Pumpkin Seed Cookies
Gjusta’s Green Harissa
Rye Berry Salad with Cider-Yogurt Dressing and Herbs
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