When it comes to entertaining, a cheese plate is often the top choice for easy, crowd-pleasing hors d'oeuvres. But equally tasty and just as low-maintenance is the charcuterie board. A curated selection of cured meats is every bit as simple to pull together, yet party-goers are far likelier to come across a plate of Pecorino and Camembert than they are jamón Serrano and bresaola.
But with salami being a perennial favorite, there's no reason not to master the art of the charcuterie board. We caught up with chef Seamus Mullen at the Ralph Lauren Paint-sponsored opening of his new restaurant and butcher shop, El Colmado Butchery. In between bites of homemade duck sausage, Mullen shared his tips for creating a party-friendly charcuterie platter that has a little something for everyone.
Access to a good butcher or specialty food shop is key to building a charcuterie board. Don't be afraid to ask questions and try samples as you choose your meats. The best meat platters have a little bit of everything. What's "everything"? Read on.
Cured sausages Cured, hard sausages are a great entry-level choice for many diners, because they're reminiscent of grocery store "pepperoni" (a misnomer, says Mullen, as the word really just means "pepper"). A quality butcher shop will have plenty of options when it comes to cured, hard sausage. Mullen likes to mix it up with complementary and contrasting flavors. For example, if you're going for a hot, garlicky chorizo or a fiery sopressata, counter it with something with a sweeter flavor profile, like fennel seed-flecked-finocchiona.
Whole-Muscle Cuts Whole-muscle cuts of meat are shaved into slices that can be thick (good for sandwiches) or paper-thin (a better choice for charcuterie boards). Common examples are lomo de cerdo, a cured pork tenderloin ** often just called lomo, and bresaola, beef tenderloin that's been air-dried and salted. If you know and love bresaola, Mullen suggests giving cesina a try—it's the Spanish version of the same cut. Bacon and jowl (often referred to as guanciale) fall into this category, as do cured pork legs, like prosciutto, jamón Serrano, and jamón Ibérico. One of Mullen's new favorites is filetto bacciato, which means "kissed fillet." It's hard to find but worth the effort: this salami-wrapped cured loin looks just like puckered lips when sliced. "It's amazing, but there are only a couple guys left that make it," he says. Your best bet is to start the search in Piemonte, Italy.
Paté or terrine
A paté or terrine adds a little textural intrigue to the typical assortment of cured sausages and meat. A terrine or paté can be made from just about anything. Mullen's favorite? "I love me a lamb shank or lamb neck terrine. For the more esoteric, rabbit with pickled vegetables." Because many terrines are formed in a loaf pan, they can be too large to eat without a plate, fork, and knife. "Cut it into smaller pieces," Mullen says. Aim for slices that can be eaten in two to three bites, on top of toast or a cracker.
Lard "Don't be afraid of a little lard!" encourages Mullen. The crew at El Colmado Butchery has plans for rendering all of their own lard for cooking and frying, so Mullen is a staunch supporter of the fatty stuff. (They're also going to be breaking down whole animals, instead of just working with deliveries of the primal cuts.) But another, more refined way to use lard that you can replicate at home? Purchase thinly shaved slices of cured fatback, also known as lardo, and layer them on small toasts, topped with fresh herbs and a sprinkle of sea salt. Fat is flavor, so a little lard goes a long way. If you have picky eaters attending the party, just don't mention the word "lard" until after they've devoured at least two toasts.
Something bready Homemade toasts are good. Homemade toasts rubbed with quality olive oil and a cut clove of garlic are way better, says Mullen. Crackers are a no-fuss, open-the-package-and-go option, but no matter what you choose, you're going to need something carby and bready for guests to pair the meat with. Extra credit for picos, crispy Spanish breadsticks that are great wrapped with thin pieces of cured meat. "It's just this perfect, crunchy, hammy thing," says Mullen.
Something jammy, something tangy A spreadable chutney or jam is the perfect foil to fatty, salty meat. Mullen is partial to a not-too-sweet one he makes with pickled raisins, pine nuts, and cauliflower. The pickled fruit helps cut through the richness of the meat, and the pine nuts add some crunch. Bright, acidic flavors perk up any charcuterie selection. You can't go wrong with a grainy mustard and tangy, tart pickles—cornichons are a classic choice.
If you've had limited experience with choosing charcuterie, the wealth of options can seem overwhelming. Branch out from your favorites with these next-level upgrades.
If you like bacon…
Mullen is a huge fan of lamb bacon—he started serving it at Tertulia, his original restaurant, eight years ago. Can't get your hands on some lamb? You can also braise uncured pork belly, or score the skin and slow-roast it at a low temperature before cranking the heat and letting it turn a handsome golden-brown.
If you like prosciutto…
Smoked country ham is a natural next step for lovers of buttery, salty, cured pork. Serrano ham from Spain is another favorite, and if you've got deep pockets, jamón Ibérico is worth the high price tag. Depending on their grade, Iberian pigs are fed a diet of exclusively acorns, acorns and grain, or just grain. The most prized (and most expensive) Iberian ham is the creamy, fatty, and nutty jamón Ibérico de bellota (acorn).
If you like "pepperoni"… If you have a soft spot for grocery store pepperoni (a.k.a. that stuff found on delivery pizza), take a deeper dive into the world of cured meat with, according to Mullen, "essentially, any hard, cured meat that needs to be unwrapped." Spicy sopressata, smoky chorizo, or a mild and buttery saucisson sec are old-world classics that will quickly earn a place on your shopping list once you give them a try.